Oaxaca Preview

Alas, it is time to embark on a quest to absorb the Oaxacan culture, food, drink, and celebration. It is time to dance with the dead, cook with the legendary cooks of Oaxaca, and of course, eat grasshoppers.

But first, here is an overview of the land and the trip.

The state of Oaxaca is Mexico's fifth largest state by area, tenth by population, and provides 16 percent of the countries GDP.


The Valley of Oaxaca sits in a temperate highland valley with year-round balmy, springlike climate. Three fertile valleys stretch out of the city providing a vast assortment of produce and tropical fruits. Over half the population are involved with agriculture, typically on a small family farm. Once a week, a family member bundles up produce, fruit, and poultry from the farm to take to the area's native market and barter for other family essentials.

This land has long been sought after for its bounty and beauty. Hernan Cortes took over the valley in the 1520s for his personal domain, but its settlers kept coming back. Cortes pleaded his case to the Queen of Spain who anointed him the royal title of Marques del Valle de Oaxaca and gave him hundreds of thousands of acres and the rights to the labor of its people. In desperation, the townspeople petitioned the Queen of Spain for land to grow and sell vegetables and were granted one-league square in 1532. This area is now the state capital, Oaxaca Ciudad (Oaxaca City).

Oaxaca City is a colonial town who's streets still run along the same grid the city fathers laid out in 1529. In the heart of the city, resides the zocalo, the tree encrusted Plaza de Armas lined with sidewalk cafes, street vendors, musicians, dancers, and more. On the next block lies the Catedral de Oaxaca (Cathedral of Oaxaca). Originally built in 1550, it was rebuilt in 1733 because of a devestating earthquake. On the other side of the zocalo, lies Mercado Juarez (Juarez Market) to bargain for just about anything that the area provides.

Alright, enough about the area. This trip was planned to coincide with the Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebration that occurs annually on November 1st (All Saints Day) and 2nd (All Souls Day). Instead of mourning the dead, Mexicans celebrate their memory during this ancient tradition. The holiday amounts to a joyous reunion of all family members, living and dead. Cemeteries are polished and decorated with flowers and candles. Alters are built with pictures, mementos, favorite foods, and drinks of the deceased.

Last, but certainly not least, are the cooking classes. I have signed up for 5 so far and hope to bribe my way into a 6th. Here is the agenda:

• 10/30 La Casa de los Sabores - mole negro with Reyna Mendoza
• 10/31 La Cocina Mexicana - TBD with Socorro Pinelo
• 11/03 La Casa de los Sabores - tamales with Pilar Cabrera
• 11/04 Seasons of My Heart - guisado with Susana Trilling
• 11/05 Alma Mi Tierra - TBD with Nora Valencia
• 11/06 Casa Crespo - TBD with Sanchez Pascuas

I'll be covering these items and more once I get immersed into the area and can supplement them with pictures.

Para todo mal, mezcal, para toda bien, tambien.

Chocolate Chile Ice Cream

With the Summer heat finally loosening its grip, what better time to make a creamy, frozen treat with a bit of a kick.

Adapted from Rick Bayless "Mexico, One Plate At a Time" PBS series.


The first step is to make the chile infusion. Remove the stem and seeds from one or two large, dried pasilla negro chiles. Over medium heat, toast the chiles, pressing it flat against the skillet with a metal spatula until it is very aromatic—about 10 seconds per side.



Place the chile in a small saucepan, add 1 1/3 cups of half-and-half, 2 ounces of Mexican chocolate and 3 ounces of semi-sweet chocolate. Heat over medium until steaming (but not boiling).


Cover and let steep for 10 minutes, then pour into a blender jar and process until the chile is pureed.


Whisk together 4 egg yolks and 1/2 cup of sugar until thoroughly combined, then whisk in the chile-infused chocolate mixture.

Devise a double boiler. Set up a 4-quart saucepan, filled halfway with water, into which you can nestle a 3-quart stainless steel bowl. Bring the pot of water to a boil over high heat then reduce the temperature under the pot to maintain a gentle simmer. Pour the chocolate mixture into the double boiler top and place on pot of simmering water.


Wisk the mixture frequently, scraping down the sides of the bowl regularly with a rubber spatula, until the mixture thickens noticeably to a custard consistency, about 5 minutes.


The custard is sufficiently cooked when it reaches 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. You can also test it by dipping a wooden spoon into the custard, then running your finger through the custard: if the line holds clearly, the custard has thickened sufficiently.

To cool the base, fill a large bowl halfway with ice. Nestle a smaller bowl into the ice and pour the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl in the ice bath. Whisk the mixture until it is completely cool. Refrigerate if not using immediately.

Finally, it is time to freeze the ice cream. Stir in 1 1/3 cup of heavy cream, 1 1/2 teaspoon Mexican vanilla, and 2 tablespoons of Kahlúa into the base. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.


Scrape into a freezer container and freeze for several hours to firm.

Risotto di Rossotti

We have had some hot weather in Sacramento this summer, meaning mostly barbecue and salad. So, after a little time off, it is time to get back to working in the kitchen.

The cooking section in my library always fascinates me because you never know what you will find there. Today I found a great book "Rice" by Christine Ingram, and was inspired to make a risotto dish. Sadly, after picking up the ingredients, I discovered that the only rice in the house was a medium grain Calrose variety. The grains get moist and tender, but are not too starchy and hold together during cooking. The traditional rice for cooking a risotto is the short, plump Arborio variety. This grain has a firm inner starch called amylose that holds together while the outer starch, amylopectin, disolves during cooking giving the risotto a creamy texture. The trip to the library had already paid off.


Adapted from Biba Caggiano's "Biba's Northern Italian Cooking".

Fill a small saucepan one-third full with water. Bring water to a boil. Add a halved carrot and celery stalk. Cook over medium heat until barely tender, then finely chop.

Heat 7 cups of chicken broth in a medium saucepan and keep hot over low heat.

Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan. When butter foams, add onion. Today I cut up a couple of shallots. Saute over medium heat until onion becomes translucent. Add 2 1/2 cups of rice and mix well. When rice is coated with butter, add 3/4 cups of white wine. Cook, stirring constantly, until the wine has evaporated.


Mix in 1 to 2 ladles of broth, or enough to cover the rice. Stir over medium heat until the broth had been absorbed. Continue cooking and stirring rice, adding broth a little at a time until rice is almost done, 10 to 15 minutes.


Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium skillet. Add 1/4 pound of mushrooms. Saute until golden. Add sauteed mushrooms, 6 ounces of diced, frozen spinach, carrot, celery, parsley, 1/2 pound of prosciutto, and 1/3 cup of whipping cream to rice mixture. Mix well and season with salt.


Cook about 5 minutes longer. When rice is tender but firm to the bite, stir in 1/2 cup of the parmesan cheese and remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Place in a warm dish. Serve immediately with the remaining parmesan cheese.